Des Quilles de joie pleines de bon vin

Les Quilles de Joie, le festival de vin naturel ou vin nature regroupant 23 vignerons du Grand Sud (Languedoc, Provence, Vallée du Rhône) célébrera son 8ème anniversaire le wee-kend du 25 au 26 novembre

Il y a 8 ans, quelques vignerons se sont réunis avec l’idée de partager leurs breuvages conçus avec un savoir-faire ancien avec le grand public. Au fur et à mesure le festival a pris de l’ampleur, il attire plus de foule chaque année et de nouveaux vignerons rejoignent le groupe. Le Gard ne compte qu’une vingtaine de vignerons producteurs de vin nature.

Quilles de joie

Thierry Forestier, un des pionnier de ce collectif, travaille à son compte au Domaine Mont de Marie. En approfondissant ses recherches, il s’est rendu compte que vin bio et vin naturel sont 2 façons de faire différentes. Ce qui le pousse à ce spécialiser dans le vin naturel c’est l’envie de respecter la terre, ne pas la polluer et la laisser reprendre ses droits. Cette production demande un apprentissage du fonctionnement de la nature, il y a une certaine philosophie derrière la transformation du raisin «un vin naturel est forcément bio mais un vin bio n’est pas forcément naturel» explique Thierry.

L’approche est différente de celle d’un vigneron conventionnel. On se pose des questions sur la nature de la plante, ses origines, la nature du sol. Comment faire en sorte que le fruit donne le meilleur de lui-même avec une intervention minime de l’homme ? Les producteurs présents aux Quilles de joie ont tous le même état d’esprit : la recherche d’un goût originel, le respect de la nature et de ses productions, une ferme opposition aux méthodes industrielles de viticulture et de vinification et un retour à des pratiques oenologiques anciennes.

La clé c’est la plante, le raisin, l’homme devient accompagnateur. Cette approche donne un vin plus pur, comme l’explique Thierry, il est plus digeste étant donné qu’il n’y a pas d’intrants chimiques. Comme tout les vins, l’emplacement du vignoble et la main experte du vigneron façonneront des goûts riches et variés. Le cahier des charges des vins nature implique que le vignoble soit cultivé en bio ou en biodynamie. Les vendanges sont obligatoirement manuelles et les raisins récoltés doivent être vinifi és rapidement. Le viticulteur n’a pas le droit d’ajouter d’intrants mis à part le soufre et des doses légères de sulfites (antiseptique et antioxydant). Certains amoureux du breuvage dont Thierry décident de ne pas utiliser de sulfite du tout. D’après lui « cette substance stoppe la vie du vin, or, un vin naturel est un vin vivant, le reflet d’une terre et d’une façon de faire ». Malgré ce que l’on pourrait croire, le vin naturel ne bouleversera pas vos bourses, une bouteille de vin rouge 2016 de Thierry coûte environ 8€. Beaucoup de vignerons nature possèdent le label bio, mais d’autres, comme nos vignerons des Quilles de Joie, ne s’y reconnaissent pas car leur travail va au-delà de la simple norme A.B, qui autorise l’acidification, le traitement thermique, l’ajout de tanins, l’ajout de copeaux de bois, les levures industriel… Le cahier des charges bio ne concerne pas la vinification (le travail en cave) mais la viticulture. Ce n’est pas le produit fini qui est contrôlé mais le raisin. Une mention « issu d’une vinification naturelle » devrait être crée prochainement pour que les amateurs de vin s’y retrouvent.

Un week-end festif

Les gens se questionnent de plus en plus sur les origines de leur alimentation. Lors de ce festival ils peuvent aller à la rencontre des artisans et découvrir comment est fait le vin qu’ils consomment. Au programme, rencontres et conversations pédagogiques avec des professionnels/ distributeurs/sommeliers animées par Agathe Beaudouin du Midi libre, animations musicales, tapas et dégustations. Le samedi soir se jouera un concert d’accordéons et tous les vignerons animeront le bar à vin. Le dimanche midi, Le restaurant Nîmois La Marmite concoctera un repas pour accompagner les fameuses quilles de rouge, de blanc ou de rosé. L’année dernière 800 personnes se sont déplacées, 1 000 personnes sont attendues cette année. Le public est assez varié, beaucoup de connaisseurs se déplacent car « le goûter, c’est l’adopter », mais il y a aussi de simples curieux aux papilles écoresponsables !

Nora Fellah

www.quillesdejoie.fr

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